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| How much should guitars weigh? http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=3642 |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Thu Oct 27, 2005 3:23 pm ] |
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I just purchased a triple beam balance (thanks Don A. for the lead) that I want to use for weighing and recording the various components when building. So my first effort was to weigh a few completed guitars I still have. Here are those comparisons: - Martin D-35 = 2160 grams - IRW/Adirondack 000 12-Fret (#2) = 2000 grams - Walnut/Redwood Parlor (#3) = 1633 grams I have no idea what it means, but I was curious to know how many of you have ever accurately weighed a completed guitar. And more importantly, have you ever found a collelation between weight and performance? Is there an ideal range? Is there a correlation between weight and volume, tone, sustain? |
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| Author: | BlueSpirit [ Thu Oct 27, 2005 6:51 pm ] |
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I have a 1995 Taylor 810 that weighs 5 lbs 3 oz, with a .60mm pick. (And a little dust under the strings by the bridge). As far as your other questions, I'll gladly stand aside and let the more experienced Luthiers answer. |
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| Author: | Shawn [ Sat Oct 29, 2005 3:52 am ] |
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It is more a matter of the weight of the individual components than the oferall total weight. Wood choices are all about tradeoffs. For fingerboards ebony has higher damping than rosewood, is heavier but is still the choice in most cases as it stands up to wear and tear better and also helps to stiffen and support the neck. For classical guitars a number of builders are starting to use lighter woods like Padauk for bridges in the pursuit of its lower weight. I can build a guitar with Malaysian Ebony that will be much heavier than the same guitar with Myrtle as the side and back and yet both guitars will sound great. Think about each component and how it contributes to the resonance and volume of the guitar and then focus on whether weight contributes positively, negatively or has no affect for that particular part. Then think about the overall balance and distribution of the weight. |
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